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Old Hollywood Glamour Returns to The Roosevelt Hotel at Nancy Silverton’s The Barish

Tucked in the corner of the landmarked lobby of the legendary Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel, The Barish held its grand (re)opening in May. After being open for just a few weeks in 2020 before the pandemic forced its early closure, it has been a long wait for celebrity chef Nancy Silverton to begin welcoming guests – many friends and family – back to the modern steakhouse in this historic space. We scored a table for two on the reopening night and have returned several times since. Exquisite dishes, divine drinks, impeccable service, sleek and stylish design, and a chance to be greeted by Nancy Silverton herself all combine for a one-of-a-kind dining experience that pays homage to Old Hollywood glamour while being something new and all its own.

The Barish is an inspired Italian steakhouse and also a tribute to Silverton’s grandmother’s family. That family were Jewish immigrants from Eastern Europe who settled in the Saskatchewan province in Canada in the late 1800s. There they raised Angus cattle and Hampshire sheep on a sprawling homestead called The Barish Farm. The Barish is Silverton’s first new restaurant since the opening of chi SPACCA in 2013. chi SPACCA, as we all know, focuses exclusively on meat dishes, and while this new restaurant also plans to focus on classic steakhouse dishes it will do with Italian influences and a larger pasta menu with several vegetarian options to boot.

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Similar to her restaurants chi SPACCA and Mozza, Silverton wanted the kitchen visible from the dining room so she enlisted Los Angeles-based design firm Nickey Kehoe Studio to develop plans for the 110-seat dining room. The space has a central wood-fire hearth with a sleek bar to your left and the open kitchen to your right. The renovated space preserves The Roosevelt’s Spanish Colonial Revival details, with modern furnishings inspired by the Italian countryside where Silverton spends summers cooking over an open fire. Silverton sourced many tabletop pieces at flea markets in Europe; the kitchy yet chic chargers and plates were hand-painted by a Tuscan ceramicist best known for the plateware at Dario Cecchini’s Antica Macelleria. Service uniforms come courtesy of Mary Ping, an American fashion designer who also designed the uniforms for La Mercerie at Roman and Williams Guild in New York City.

Start with the Pizza Fritta, a decadent and dashing dish that is sure to become one of The Barish’s signature items. The flatbread is flaky and crunchy on the outside and soft and chewy inside with a massive dollop of ricotta that adds a touch of sweetness to the savory bread. It shouldn’t work – it’s almost a dessert, and just barely a pizza – yet it’s the ultimate appetizer and will make the restaurant a destination for the pre-theater and post-theater crowds.

We all know Silverton can make an excellent pasta dish but instead of standard courses like carbonara and bolognese, The Barish is trying something new: the restaurant will only serve baked pastas. All four are worth trying, but if you can order just one, get the Rigatoni. First of all: it’s fun to look at in its cast iron au gratin dish and second: it comes stuffed with squash, goat cheese, and vadouvan. Vadouvan is a French derivative of masala, basically an Indian curry blend with added aromatics such as shallots and garlic. It’s a favorite in my house and I’m always happy to come across it at a restaurant in Los Angeles. All of the pastas are baked in the expansive wood fire and have hints of that pine-y, peppery aromas that can only come from that. Inspired by summers spent cooking over open fires in Italy, the steaks, fish and poultry are grilled simply over a vast wood fire, as are the pasta dishes.

As my entree, I usually get the Sea Bream with a side of the Grilled Mushrooms. The Sea Bream is made with ‘nduja, black olives, and gremolata, and is spicy and sophisticated without overpowering the fish. For the Bistecca section, a 20 oz Dry Aged New York will run you $95 – a steal for two in this town – while a 40 oz Dry Aged Porterhouse is $150. Hearkening back to Old Hollywood’s Sinatra days, you may choose your own sauce to accompany your steak. Sauces include a cacio e pepe, horseradish crème fraiche, pickled mustard seed vinaigrette. All of the steaks are served over seasonal fava beans, pink celery and lamb sausage.

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And of course what steakhouse would be complete without a well curated wine and an innovative cocktails list? Pair your dinner with a selection from more than thirty wines hand-picked for this very special menu. Finish the evening with the Olive Oil Gelato.

And, needless to say, it’s also a real treat to see Nancy Silverton – an iconic Los Angeles presence at this point – directing the kitchen and gliding through the dining room graciously greeting guests from table to table like every guest is an old friend. Also big news? This year the James Beard Award-winning restaurateur is making plans to reinvent Teddy’s, the hotel’s former late night club and celebrity hotspot that saw just about every star from the early and mid 2000s. It will be transformed into Lorenzo’s and serve wine, cheese, snacks, and fondue. Cannot wait!

The Barish
7000 Hollywood Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90028
Closed Monday & Tuesday
Wednesday & Thursday 5:30-9:30PM
Friday, Saturday, & Sunday 5PM-10PM
For reservations, go here.
And follow The Barish on Instagram!

Enjoy!

Jacqueline Tager | CalBre#: 1476997
jacqueline.tager@sothebyshomes.com | (323) 697-3040
Sotheby’s International Realty – Los Feliz Brokerage
1801 N Hillhurst Avenue Los Angeles, CA 90027

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